Shoe Lasting Constructions
Once you have designed your shoe, you need to decide which shoe lasting type or construction technique is right for your shoe. Shoe “lasting” is the shoemaking operation that sets the final shape of a shoe and holds it in place so the outsole can be permanently attached. The ideal shoe pattern fits the last tightly. The lasting operation will stretch the upper a bit, but not so much as to damage the shoe materials.
Strobel, slip, force, or California lasting is the most common shoe construction for casual and athletic shoes. Once the upper is complete, a “sock” or bottom material is added to “close” the upper. This material is non-stretch and is marked so the assembler can keep the upper straight on the last. As before, once the upper is heated and slipped on, it will be cooled to make the material fit tight. A machine assist may be used to make sure the heel is down tight. This shoe construction is used in almost every sports shoe.
Shoe Lasting Types
The shoe lasting type you select will depend on a few factors: the shoe upper material, the required stiffness of the finished shoe, and price. I’m going to review the most common shoe lasting constructions used to make athletic, casual, and dress shoes. These are slip lasting, Strobel lasting, California lasting, combination lasting, and board lasting.
Slip Lasting
Slip lasting is used to make the most flexible shoes. It is often used to make lightweight running or racing shoes. Slip lasting can also be called moccasin type shoe construction. The shoe’s upper materials, usually mesh and polyester, are left long and patterned to meet in the middle of the shoe. Once the sides are joined, the upper will be steam-heated and the last slipped in with the shoe being laced up tight. The upper is then cooled so it will tighten before the bottom is attached.
Strobel construction
Strobel, slip, force, or California lasting is the most common shoe construction for casual and athletic shoes. Once the upper is complete, a “sock” or bottom material is added to “close” the upper. This material is non-stretch and is marked so the assembler can keep the upper straight on the last. As before, once the upper is heated and slipped on, it will be cooled to make the material fit tight. A machine assist may be used to make sure the heel is down tight. This shoe construction is used in almost every sports shoe. 
Combination Last
The combination last is used to ensure the toe of a shoe is correctly formed to the last. For a shoe with a smooth, solid toe cap, the Strobel sock may be attached to the inner lining, and a lasting “skirt” may be left on the toe cap pattern part. Once the upper is lasted, a second machine operation is used to pull the toe pattern part down tight. This shoe construction is often used on light hiking boots and basketball shoes with smooth leather toe tips. Toe lasting allows the leather to be shaped with a lasting machine.
Another reason to use the combination last is to make a lightweight shoe stiffer. In this case, the forefoot is formed by Strobel, while the rear of the shoe is board lasted. This allows the shoe to have a shank or stiffer board in the rear of the shoes. For this type, a machine is used to “heel last” the upper, while the waist area may be pulled by hand with a pair of lasting pliers. You will find this shoe construction on “support” shoes and light hikers.
Board Lasting
