The running shoe last is designed to create a lightweight, close-fitting, flexible shoe with enough heel lift for impact-absorbing cushioning. This last has a low medial sidewall that flares up to create extra toe space. This gives the shoe extra flexibility and helps hold the foot back into the shoe for a snug fit without pinching the runner’s toes.

Feather Edge

The feather edge of this running shoe last is relatively hard. This last
can be used for both Strobel and board lasting constructions. Most running shoes are Strobel lasted to be lightweight and flexible. However, some running shoes designed for heavy runners and extra stability may be combination lasted with a 3⁄4 length lasting board under the heel.

Toe Spring

The toe spring of this running shoe last is a standard 15mm. The midsole tapers forward of the ball girth line creating more rise in the front of the shoe. The running shoe is flexible, so the minimal toe spring is just enough to stop the upper from wrinkling.

Toe Box

The toe box is the full height at the tip and
stays flat above the toes. The last contour rises smoothly into the cone to create a gradual slope.

Ball Girth

The ball girth of this shoe is standard for a 9D, 241mm. This creates a close-fitting upper that holds the foot securely. The girth dimension is critical to hold the foot back while allowing it to flex naturally.

Cone

The cone of a running shoe last must fit close, holding the foot back into the heel pocket of the shoe.

Sock Allowance

Running shoes will have a sock allowance. About 4mm to 5mm is enough for a fully padded EVA footbed with fabric top sheet.

Cuboid

The cuboid of a running shoe last is wide at the feather edge but tapers to be dramatically thinner above the ankle. This creates a snug-fitting collar to hold the foot down into the shoe.

Heel Height

The typical running shoe last heel lift is 15mm, the standard for an athletic shoe. This provides space under the heel for cushioning. The heel contour of the last is fully formed to create a secure pocket for the foot

Footwear Pattern Making and Last Design
A beginner’s guide to the fundamental techniques of shoemaking. 

Do you want to learn how to make shoe patterns? Do you know how to design a last for a high heeled fashion shoe versus a sneaker or dress shoe? In Footwear Pattern Making and Last Design, we will teach you the shoe last design process and detail the basic techniques of footwear pattern making.