The Derby is an open-laced style of shoe widespread in Europe, often double stitched and double soled. Also known as “bluchers.” The most common variants are plain, full-brogues, and semi-brogues.

The foot imprint is produced by the ped-a-graph. It gives an exact picture of the arch of the foot, the intersection points of the arch curves, and the position of the toes.

Sales Representative and Sub Rep: Selling shoes is a great way to get involved. The sales force is exposed to many aspects of the shoe trade. An active sales rep can help shape the product line. On the front line selling the shoes, the salesmen […]

Box Calf leather is calfskin tanned with chrome salts. It is considered to be the best material for shoe uppers and boot legs.

Nubuck is top-grain cattle hide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface

Shoe Parts: Mustache the Mustache is the shoe part attached to the shoe above the heel counter part. The classic sneaker will have a mustache.

MTO or Made to Order or Make to Order Made to order or MTO is a special production run of shoes. The MTO shoes can be for a specific shoe store or an international distributor. Usually a special color or material treatment is required. The […]

Top-grain leather, (the most common type used in high-end leather products) is the second-highest quality. The “split” layer has been separated away, making it thinner and more pliable than full-grain. Its surface has been sanded, and a finish coat added to the surface which results […]

The Shoe Part: Mudguard The Muguard is the shoe pattern part seen along the forward part of the shoe and along the edge of the outsole.

Amortization or Amortize A factory customer and the factory agree to pay for the shoe tooling costs piece-by-piece. The tooling cost is amortized by adding a small charge to each pair of shoes. For example, a $10,000 tooling bill may be paid by adding $.50 to the […]