Force Lasting A lasting process where the insole board or Strobel sock (usually canvas or non-woven) is stitched around the last bottom edge to complete the upper. Usually used for more lightweight, flexible shoes such as running shoes. Also called slip lasting. In the force […]
Finishing wax is a type of wax, of which the shoemaker applies a thin coat to the upper surfaces of the shoe after inking. It is then pressed into the leather together with the ink using a warm iron.
Leather Direction of Stretch is important to the placing of the former. The former for the vamp, for example, must be oriented so that the leather can expand lengthwise but not across – whereas if the quarters can expand lengthwise, they will stretch by two-fifths to […]
The Derby is an open-laced style of shoe widespread in Europe, often double stitched and double soled. Also known as “bluchers.” The most common variants are plain, full-brogues, and semi-brogues.
The foot imprint is produced by the ped-a-graph. It gives an exact picture of the arch of the foot, the intersection points of the arch curves, and the position of the toes.
The ball girth, also called the joint girth, is a measurement of the distance around shoe’s toe box at its widest point, typically at the metatarsal heads (the ball of the foot). It is used to ensure the shoe fits the width of the wearer’s […]